TBP 297: Overcoming Mental Side of Injuries w/ Jana Unterholzner
Jana Unterholzner has her master’s degree as a Sport and Performance Psychologist and she recently helped create an online course at unblocd.com to guide climbers through mentally recovering from injuries. I asked her to be on the show to talk about some of the tools and information she provides in that course.
In this episode, we both share some of our key experiences going through our own injuries and Jana talks about the following:
Why the mental side of injury matters as much as the physical
How injury recovery can mirror grief in practice
Strategies for working with fear after injury
Why tracking progress makes such a difference
Reframing injury: challenge vs. threat
Building resilience (vs. being born with it)
The role of self-compassion in recovery
Tools for managing negative thoughts
What kind of support actually helps during recovery
Why rehab consistency is tough — and what helps
Growing into someone new, rather than ‘getting back’ to your old self
The people at unblocd.com are offering you a 30% discount on all of their programs, including the new Injury Recovery program, and their mini programs at unblocd.com using the code “TRAININGBETA30” at checkout.
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1:13:09
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1:13:09
TBP 296: Coaching Session on Fear of Falling and Learning to Try Hard
In this episode I do a full mindset coaching session with Robyn Steuber, a 33-yr-old climber whose main barrier in climbing is her fear of falling and inability to try hard above her bolt. She also struggles with performance anxiety and fear of failing. So I did a complete one-hour session with her, just as I would with any climbing client, and we dissected exactly what she's afraid of and made a plan for her to start overcoming her fears. We discussed fall practice, quantitative ways for her to start learning how to try hard in general (and eventually above her bolt), and I gave her strategies for dealing with the big emotions that come with a stressful day of climbing.
If you want to work with me on your own mental barriers in climbing, visit www.trainingbeta.com/mindset.
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1:08:45
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1:08:45
TBP 295: Climber & Doctor Katie O'Brien on Perimenopause: Hormone Replacement Therapy, Nutrition, Supplements
Dr. Katie O'Brien is a functional medicine doctor who specializes in perimenopause, and in this episode she goes into great detail about what perimenopause is and how to navigate it with hormones, supplements, nutrition, and lifestyle choices so you can continue climbing hard in your late 30's, 40's and beyond.
This episode is not just for perimenopausal women! This is for everyone so that you, as a woman, can be sure you recognize signs and symptoms of perimenopause when they happen (and know what to do about them), and so that you, as a man, can help advocate for the women in your life. This is crucial for every woman's health and happiness. I hope you get a lot out of this conversation :)
Dr. Katie's new supplement FemmeMD - get 20% off with code friends20: https://shop.femme-md.com/
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1:31:37
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1:31:37
Neely Quinn on The Struggle Climbing Show Talking about Perfectionism in Climbing
Ryan Devlin invited Neely Quinn (the host of The TrainingBeta Podcast) to be on his podcast, The Struggle Climbing Show, to talk about perfectionism in climbing. Neely talks about common symptoms of perfectionism in climbers, how it can hold people back, and how it's actually kind of a super power. She also did some coaching on Ryan to help him enjoy climbing a little bit more, instead of being so intent on constantly achieving big things in his climbing. Ryan kindly shared this recording of the interview with Neely to share on this podcast, but it was originally published on The Struggle Climbing Show, which you should definitely check out.
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1:15:44
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1:15:44
TBP 294 :: Nutrition Session with Climber for Sugar Cravings and Weight Gain
In this episode I did a full nutrition session with a climber, Katelin Hollowell who was struggling with intense sugar cravings and some weight gain. I treated this episode as I would any client session and asked her a bunch of questions about her goals, her lifestyle, her training, etc., and then I looked at her diet log on the MyFitnessPal app and gave her some concrete suggestions for what to do next. I then asked her for an update about three weeks after our initial conversation and I included that at the end of the episode.
If you want to follow along with her diet log screensharing that I did during the episode, you can watch this episode on video on youtube. If you'd like to work with me on your nutrition, I'm currently taking new clients and would love to help you!
I also mentioned in the podcast that I created another podcast! It's completely off the topic of climbing and it's called The Spelling Bee Podcast, where I quiz you on the spelling of 10 challenging words each week and teach you about the origins of the words. You can find it wherever you get your podcasts :)
About The TrainingBeta Podcast: A Climbing Training Podcast
Hosted by climber, nutritionist, and mindset coach, Neely Quinn, The TrainingBeta Podcast is a regular conversation with rock climbing’s best and brightest, including pro rock climbers, climbing trainers, and other insightful members of the climbing community. You’ll learn how to train for climbing, how to fuel yourself well for climbing, and mindset strategies to help you perform well on the wall and have a great time doing it. Whether you’re a beginner climber or a seasoned pro, you’ll learn something from these conversations, or at the very least, get really stoked to climb and train.
Listen to The TrainingBeta Podcast: A Climbing Training Podcast, The Mindset Mentor and many other podcasts from around the world with the radio.net app
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