The Struggle Climbing Show

Break through plateaus, stay consistent, and make every session count with a free 14-day trial of Intentional Climber.

https://www.thestruggleclimbingshow.com/intentional

 

Support the Show on Patreon
Get access to all Pro Clinics, bonus episodes, and more.
https://www.patreon.com/thestruggleclimbingshow

 

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Coach Louis Parkinson and psychotherapist Joel Robertson team up to explore:

Why beginner climbers are often happier than experienced climbers

The three main sources of enjoyment as climbers

A “humanistic” approach to climbing

Benefits of neutral self talk (rather than positive or negative)

How to be an effective self-coach

A magic word we can say to ourselves that will change our climbing in a huge way

Arriving at the moment ready to send

How to climb our hardest year after year (forever) if we want

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BIG THANKS TO THE AMAZING SPONSORS OF THE STRUGGLE WHO LOVE ROCK CLIMBING AS MUCH AS YOU DO:

PhysiVantage: the official climbing-nutrition sponsor of The Struggle. Train harder, recover faster, and feel better than ever. I love all their stuff! Use code STRUGGLE15 at checkout for 15% off your full-priced nutrition order.

Arc’teryx: Inspired by and tested in the Coast Mountains of BC, Arc’teryx makes gear to go the distance! If you’re out adventuring in the elements, Arc’teryx has got you covered. Shop their full collection at Arcteryx.com 

Intentional Climber: Stop spinning your wheels. Start making real progress. Plan smarter, train harder, and stay consistent with world-class coaching plans, mindset tools, and powerful analytics built specifically for climbers. Download on Google Play or the App Store and use code STRUGGLE to unlock Kris Hampton’s 6-week Stronger Fingers program.

And check out ALL the show’s awesome sponsors and exclusive deals at thestruggleclimbingshow.com/deals

 

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Shoutout to Kent Olmstead, Michael Martin, and Sam Hancock for supporting at the Hero level on Patreon. So mega! 

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Here are some AI generated show notes (hopefully the robots got it right)

00:00 Self Worth After Success

00:26 Show Intro And Book Setup

01:51 Why Get A Grip Matters

05:33 Meet The Co Authors

05:59 Joel Origin Story

08:47 Coaching Meets Therapy

10:08 How The Book Began

12:57 Climbing And Fragile Worth

15:38 Why Climbing Triggers Ego

18:23 Three Joy Sources In Climbing

21:51 Sponsor Break

24:47 Humanistic Worth Explained

28:42 Erin And Family Expectations

31:38 Staying On I Am Enough

32:28 Grades And Status

34:00 Power We Give Away

37:57 Comparison Book Analogy

42:05 Neutral Self Talk

48:12 Yet And So Far

52:24 Language Shapes Training

54:40 Intentional Climber Plug

57:47 Expectations And Conditions

01:02:27 Pressure When It Matters

01:07:07 Disappointment Without Identity

01:09:06 Healthy Ambition Reframed

01:11:00 Motivation After Your Peak

01:14:58 Flow Fulfillment Purpose

01:17:23 Change Mindset For Aging

01:19:11 Mortality Regret Acceptance

01:23:09 Climbing Values Check In

01:25:03 Book Highlights Mindfulness

01:30:02 Where To Get The Book

01:32:33 Host Wrap Up Updates

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Follow along on Instagram @thestruggleclimbingshow and YouTube /@thestruggleclimbingshow

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The Struggle is carbon-neutral in partnership with The Honnold Foundation, whose mission is to promote solar energy for a more equitable world.

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This show is produced and hosted by Ryan Devlin, and edited by Glen Walker. The Struggle is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective, a diverse group of the best, most impactful podcasts in the outdoor industry.

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The struggle makes us stronger! I hope your training and climbing are going great. 

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And now here are some buzzwords to help the almighty algorithm get this show in front of people who love to climb: rock climbing, rock climber, climbing, climber, bouldering, sport climbing, gym climbing, how to rock climb, donuts are amazing. Okay, whew, that’s done. But hey, if you’re a human that’s actually reading this, and if you love this show (and love to climb) would you think about sharing this episode with a climber friend of yours? And shout it out on your socials? I’ll send you a sticker for doing it. Just shoot me a message on IG – thanks so much!

Break through plateaus, stay consistent, and make every session count with a free 14-day trial of Intentional Climber.

https://www.thestruggleclimbingshow.com/intentional

 

Support the Show on Patreon
Get access to all Pro Clinics, bonus episodes, and more.
https://www.patreon.com/thestruggleclimbingshow

 

Founder of The Climb Clinic, Kevin Cowell, joins to discuss:

Starting the Climb Clinic in his garage

Treating elite athletes and weekend warriors

What happens to our identify as climbers when we become injured

How to keep climbing and training while managing an injury

Work, school, family… and other things that can affect our climbing identity

What to do when pushing grades is important

What to do after we’ve “peaked”

How to get better when we can’t get stronger

Follow Kevin https://www.instagram.com/theclimbclinic/?hl=en

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BIG THANKS TO THE AMAZING SPONSORS OF THE STRUGGLE WHO LOVE ROCK CLIMBING AS MUCH AS YOU DO:

PhysiVantage: the official climbing-nutrition sponsor of The Struggle. Use code STRUGGLE15 at checkout for 15% off your full-priced nutrition order.

Arc’teryx: Inspired by and tested in the Coast Mountains of BC, Arc’teryx makes gear to go the distance! If you’re out adventuring in the elements, Arc’teryx has got you covered. Shop their full collection at Arcteryx.com

Intentional Climber: Stop spinning your wheels. Start making real progress. Plan smarter, train harder, and stay consistent with world-class coaching plans, mindset tools, and powerful analytics built specifically for climbers. Download on Google Play or the App Store and use code STRUGGLE to unlock Kris Hampton’s 6-week Stronger Fingers program. 

And check out ALL the show’s awesome sponsors and exclusive deals at thestruggleclimbingshow.com/deals

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Here are some AI generated show notes (hopefully the robots got it right)

00:00 Plateaus And Shifting Focus

00:56 Meet Kevin Kowal

03:44 Squamish Academy Stories

04:42 Kevin’s Climbing Origin

06:12 Building The Climb Clinic

08:23 Treating Pro Athletes

10:23 When Expectations Collapse

12:43 Injury And Identity

14:39 Reframing Rehab And Training

19:13 Beyond Injury Life Changes

22:56 Sponsors And Gear Break

25:48 Kevin’s Own Setbacks

31:47 Progression Obsession

34:14 Can You Still Progress

36:03 Plateau And Tweaks

36:46 Low Hanging Fruit

38:50 Elite Habits Beyond Hangboarding

40:55 Training Shift Rope To Board

45:36 Injury As Performance Gift

46:51 Life After The Peak

51:38 Humbling Trips And New Beta

57:14 Long Term Climbing Relationship

01:00:39 Work With Kevin And His Course

01:04:12 Bonus Episode And Season Updates

 

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Shoutout to Kent Olmstead, Michael Martin, and Sam Hancock for supporting at the Hero level on Patreon. So mega! 

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Follow along on Instagram and YouTube: @thestruggleclimbingshow 

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This show is produced and hosted by Ryan Devlin, and edited by Glen Walker. The Struggle is carbon-neutral in partnership with The Honnold Foundation and is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective, a diverse group of the best, most impactful podcasts in the outdoor industry.

And now here are some buzzwords to help the almighty algorithm get this show in front of people who love to climb: rock climbing, rock climber, climbing, climber, bouldering, sport climbing, gym climbing, how to rock climb, donuts are amazing. Okay, whew, that’s done. But hey, if you’re a human that’s actually reading this, and if you love this show (and love to climb) would you think about sharing this episode with a climber friend of yours? And shout it out on your socials? I’ll send you a sticker for doing it. Just shoot me a message on IG – thanks so much!

Break through plateaus, stay consistent, and make every session count with a free 14-day trial of Intentional Climber.

https://www.thestruggleclimbingshow.com/intentional

 

OG climbers and advocates Shannon Stuart-Smith, Hugh Loeffler, and Paul Vidal, join for a live discussion at iconic Miguel's Pizza during Rocktoberfest to explore:

The hilarious stories behind the naming of the classic routes  “Two Women Alone” and “Mercy the Huff”

Early days of bolting routes at the Red

The forest service bolting ban that prompted Shannon, Hugh, and others to take action to protect the Red

How to fake your way into becoming an organization

The discovery, development, and purchase of the Motherlode

The discovery of The Dark Side

The Hominy Hole incident

Petzl RocTrip and Rocktoberfest

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PLEASE SUPPORT THE WORK OF THE RRGCC IF YOU CAN, ALONG WITH THESE RAD BRANDS WHO SUPPORT THE COALITION:

Red River Gorge Climbers Coalition: Freedom to climb is not free. If you climb at the Red, become a member!

PhysiVantage: the official climbing-nutrition sponsor of The Struggle. Use code STRUGGLE15 at checkout for 15% off your full-priced nutrition order.

SCARPA: The best climbing shoes, trail runners, and hikers in the game! Score yourself a free SCARPA x STRUGGLE hat when you use code STRUGGLE at checkout at SCARPA.com. SCARPA, No Place Too Far.

Petzl: The best and most reliable helmets, harnesses, draws, and gear that'll help you to Access the Inaccessible. Find Petzl at your local gear shop, and learn more at Petzl.com

Rhino Skin Solutions: Take care of your skin, send harder! Amazing skin care products crafted specifically for climbers, whether you’re pulling hard indoors or out. Use code STRUGGLE to score a whopping 20% off your purchase! 

 

And check out ALL the show’s awesome sponsors and exclusive deals at thestruggleclimbingshow.com/deals

-

Shoutout to Kent Olmstead, Michael Martin, and Sam Hancock for supporting at the Hero level on Patreon. So mega! 

-

Follow along on Instagram and YouTube: @thestruggleclimbingshow 

-

This show is produced and hosted by Ryan Devlin, and edited by Glen Walker. The Struggle is carbon-neutral in partnership with The Honnold Foundation and is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective, a diverse group of the best, most impactful podcasts in the outdoor industry.

And now here are some buzzwords to help the almighty algorithm get this show in front of people who love to climb: rock climbing, rock climber, climbing, climber, bouldering, sport climbing, gym climbing, how to rock climb, donuts are amazing. Okay, whew, that’s done. But hey, if you’re a human that’s actually reading this, and if you love this show (and love to climb) would you think about sharing this episode with a climber friend of yours? And shout it out on your socials? I’ll send you a sticker for doing it. Just shoot me a message on IG – thanks so much!

Break through plateaus, stay consistent, and make every session count with a free 14-day trial of Intentional Climber.

https://www.thestruggleclimbingshow.com/intentional

 

Support the Show on Patreon
Get access to all Pro Clinics, bonus episodes, and more.
https://www.patreon.com/thestruggleclimbingshow

 

Chris Kalous of the Enormocast, along with weekend warrior (and Hell coach) Annette Guo, join me to explore the good, the bad, and the ugly of our recent 24 Hours of Horseshoe Hell epic, including:

My mind blowing COROS metrics

Coach Annette and her support plan

Using legs more than arms

Funniest moment

Darkest moment

Having a good cry

My epic bonk and how we adjusted

The song that lifted me out of the depths

75 routes, 100 routes

 

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BIG THANKS TO THE AMAZING SPONSORS WHO GOT ME THROUGH HELL AND BACK:

COROS: Track your workouts, HR, HRV, Sleep, Recovery, and Climbs with the best wearable tech for serious climbers. Use code STRUGGLE at COROS.com to score a free watch band with the purchase of a COROS Apex 4.

SCARPA: The best climbing shoes, trail runners, and hikers in the game! Score yourself a free SCARPA x STRUGGLE hat when you use code STRUGGLE at checkout at SCARPA.com. SCARPA, No Place Too Far.

Petzl: The best and most reliable helmets, harnesses, draws, and gear that'll help you to Access the Inaccessible. Find Petzl at your local gear shop, and learn more at Petzl.com

Rhino Skin Solutions: Take care of your skin, send harder! Amazing skin care products crafted specifically for climbers, whether you’re pulling hard indoors or out. Use code STRUGGLE to score a whopping 20% off your purchase! 

 

And check out ALL the show’s awesome sponsors and exclusive deals at thestruggleclimbingshow.com/deals

-

Shoutout to Kent Olmstead, Michael Martin, and Sam Hancock for supporting at the Hero level on Patreon. So mega! 

-

Follow along on Instagram and YouTube: @thestruggleclimbingshow 

-

This show is produced and hosted by Ryan Devlin, and edited by Glen Walker. The Struggle is carbon-neutral in partnership with The Honnold Foundation and is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective, a diverse group of the best, most impactful podcasts in the outdoor industry.

 

And now here are some buzzwords to help the almighty algorithm get this show in front of people who love to climb: rock climbing, rock climber, climbing, climber, bouldering, sport climbing, gym climbing, how to rock climb, donuts are amazing. Okay, whew, that’s done. But hey, if you’re a human that’s actually reading this, and if you love this show (and love to climb) would you think about sharing this episode with a climber friend of yours? And shout it out on your socials? I’ll send you a sticker for doing it. Just shoot me a message on IG – thanks so much!

Break through plateaus, stay consistent, and make every session count with a free 14-day trial of Intentional Climber.

https://www.thestruggleclimbingshow.com/intentional

 

Join the email list to get a FREE private finger training clinic with Dr. Tyler Nelson
(normally $15)
www.thestruggleclimbingshow.com/strong

 

Support the Show on Patreon
Get access to all Pro Clinics, bonus episodes, and more.
https://www.patreon.com/thestruggleclimbingshow

 

Climbing Coach Joy Black joins to discuss:

How to make a 30-min session count

Removing friction to start workouts faster

Being strong doesn’t mean being good

Her groundbreaking study on climbing while pregnant

How dangerous is falling while pregnant?

Helpful signs to know when to end a session

Postpartum training and climbing

I HAVE A PELVIC FLOOR (and so do you)

Listener Q&A

 
Follow joy on IG, @climbingwithjoy, and email her for a copy of the study: joy@trainedbyjoy.com
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BIG THANKS TO THE AMAZING SPONSORS OF THE STRUGGLE WHO LOVE ROCK CLIMBING AS MUCH AS YOU DO:

PhysiVantage: the official climbing-nutrition sponsor of The Struggle. Train harder, recover faster, and feel better than ever. I love all their stuff! Use code STRUGGLE15 at checkout for 15% off your full-priced nutrition order.

Arc’teryx: Inspired by and tested in the Coast Mountains of BC, Arc’teryx makes gear to go the distance! If you’re out adventuring in the elements, Arc’teryx has got you covered. Shop their full collection at Arcteryx.com 

Intentional Climber: Stop spinning your wheels. Start making real progress. Plan smarter, train harder, and stay consistent with world-class coaching plans, mindset tools, and powerful analytics built specifically for climbers. Download on Google Play or the App Store and use code STRUGGLE to unlock Kris Hampton’s 6-week Stronger Fingers program.

And check out ALL the show’s awesome sponsors and exclusive deals at thestruggleclimbingshow.com/deals

-

Here are some AI generated show notes (hopefully the robots got it right)

00:00 Why This Paper Matters
00:48 Meet Joy Black
05:01 Small Talk and Cold Plunges
08:07 Parenting and Training Consistency
13:08 Beating Perfectionism
16:56 Joy’s Current Struggle
21:12 Coaching Pregnant Climbers
24:52 Sponsor Break
27:45 Replacing Opinion With Data
33:14 Study Methods and Fall Risk
36:24 Risk Rates In Context
37:29 Talking With Providers
40:01 Bouldering Falls Breakdown
41:38 How Climbers Self Modify
44:03 Misconceptions About Falling
45:50 Miscarriage And Birth Outcomes
46:48 Natural Taper And Guardrails
50:45 Pregnancy Not Performance Season
54:12 Intentional Climber Ad Break
56:04 Mental Health Benefits
58:18 Relaxin And Finger Training
01:03:21 Defining Postpartum Timeline
01:06:13 Breastfeeding Vs Recovery
01:08:11 Pelvic Floor Explained
01:12:55 Postpartum Pelvic Floor Rehab
01:16:04 Pelvic Floor Progression
01:17:04 Coaching Lessons for All
01:19:41 Consistency and Intentional Training
01:20:55 Finger Training Focus
01:22:31 Overcoming Iso Repeaters Setup
01:25:52 Overhead vs Ground Repeaters
01:28:32 Stacking Sessions and Block Pulls
01:30:22 Rapid Fire Listener Q&A
01:30:36 Kids at the Gym Tips
01:32:53 Caffeine During Pregnancy
01:34:05 Two Years Postpartum Rebuild
01:37:41 Where to Find Joy
01:39:06 Wrap Up and Next Pro Clinic
01:41:11 Host Updates and Upcoming Events
01:47:48 Final Thanks and Sign Off

-

Shoutout to Kent Olmstead, Michael Martin, and Sam Hancock for supporting at the Hero level on Patreon. So mega! 

-

Follow along on Instagram and YouTube: @thestruggleclimbingshow 

-

This show is produced and hosted by Ryan Devlin, and edited by Glen Walker. The Struggle is carbon-neutral in partnership with The Honnold Foundation and is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective, a diverse group of the best, most impactful podcasts in the outdoor industry.

And now here are some buzzwords to help the almighty algorithm get this show in front of people who love to climb: rock climbing, rock climber, climbing, climber, bouldering, sport climbing, gym climbing, how to rock climb, donuts are amazing. Okay, whew, that’s done. But hey, if you’re a human that’s actually reading this, and if you love this show (and love to climb) would you think about sharing this episode with a climber friend of yours? And shout it out on your socials? I’ll send you a sticker for doing it. Just shoot me a message on IG – thanks so much!