Eric Hörst's Training For Climbing Podcast

• #116: Climb Better TODAY! 15 In-Season Tips to Level Up Now!

  Coach Hörst shares 15 game-changing tips to elevate your climbing this season. Performance gains aren’t made solely in the gym. As Coach Hörst explains, there’s a lot you can do in-season—technically, tactically, and nutritionally—to level up your outdoor climbing. Apply just a few of these strategies today, and you might send your project sooner than expected. Put most or all into practice over the coming weeks, and you could unlock a whole new level of performance this season! RUNDOWN 0:30 – Introduction: Why these 15 tips matter for your in-season performance. 2:20 – Tip #1: Know the context of your current training and climbing—and act accordingly. 5:08 – Tip #2: Dial in your warm-up to match the demands of your project. (Not all warm-ups are created equal!) 8:40 – Tip #3: Time your sends by planning around temperature trends and sun exposure. 10:35 – Tip #4: Build confidence by climbing routes that match your natural style. 12:35 – Tip #5: Occasionally work "anti-style" routes to promote long-term growth and mastery. 15:35 – Tip #6: Always bring two pairs of shoes: a comfortable pair for warming up and a performance pair for sending. 18:20 – Tip #7: Prioritize movement efficiency when projecting. Climb smart with the strength and skills you have today. 24:15 – Tip #8: Focus on making a few high-quality efforts per session—not just maxing out your goes. 27:55 – Tip #9: Recover faster between attempts with active recovery techniques. 31:28 – Tip #10: Don’t climb to exhaustion. End your session before mental and physical fatigue sabotages your efforts—and recovery. 📢 Commercial Break: Why top doctors and PTs recommend daily collagen supplementation for athletes. Use code PODCAST15 to save 15% at PhysiVantage.com 41:50 – Tip #11: Fuel appropriately for the day’s climbing. Stable blood glucose = steady performance. 47:20 – Tip #12: Refuel quickly post-session: 20g protein + some carbs within 30 minutes. Follow up with a healthy meal within 2–3 hours. 50:32 – Tip #13: One beer max (zero is ideal) to avoid impairing recovery. 52:32 – Tip #14: Do some light stretching or foam rolling in the evening to aid recovery and sleep. 54:30 – Tip #15: Have a 20–40g protein shake about 30 minutes before bed to support overnight muscle repair and growth. 57:40 – BONUS TIP!: Learn how to outperform the masses by doing what most climbers won’t. 1:01:57 – Wrap-up: Final thoughts, resources, and how to connect. Stay Connected with Coach Hörst and Training for Climbing 📬 Join the Newsletter: Get a monthly dose (or two) of exclusive training tips delivered straight to your inbox! Sign up at TrainingForClimbing.com—just enter your name and email in the popup. 📱 Follow Eric Online: Instagram: @eric_horst | @training4climbing Twitter: @Train4Climbing YouTube: Training For Climbing Channel Facebook: Training For Climbing 🎧 Support the Podcast Sponsor: Fuel your performance with PhysiVantage Nutrition—formulated for climbers, trusted by pros. Use checkout code PODCAST15 at PhysiVantage.com to save 15% on full-priced items (North America only). 🌍 Outside North America? Order from EPIC-TV Shop or BananaFingers.com. 👟 SAVE on La Sportiva shoes here >> 🙌 Thanks to our supporters: La Sportiva, DMM Climbing, Friction Labs, PhysiVantage Nutrition 🎵 Music by Misty Murphy 💬 Love the podcast? Leave a 5-star review on Apple Podcasts and share this episode with a friend who climbs! © 2025 Eric Hörst | Horst Training, LLC. All rights reserved.

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• #115: Training Strategy for the Next Grade -- A collab with Ryan Devlin of the Struggle Podcast

  What does it take to break through to the next climbing grade? With each new milestone, the challenge grows harder—but potentially more rewarding. In this special collaboration with The Struggle Podcast, I coach Ryan Devlin as he works to push past his current limit of 5.13a and lay the foundation for his next breakthrough in sport climbing. No matter your level, the tips and strategies we share in this episode can help guide your own climbing progression. A key focus of our conversation is the concept of building a solid "grade pyramid"—a proven approach for long-term advancement. This episode follows up on episodes #86, #91, #94, and #102, where I’ve been coaching Ryan on his journey toward his first-ever 5.13. You’ll get an inside look at where he stands as of April 2025, and the specific training and climbing recommendations I’ve made for his upcoming summer season, all with an eye toward peaking in the prime conditions of Fall. Tune in to learn actionable strategies, exercises, and mindset shifts to support your next goal—whether that’s your first 5.10 or your hardest send yet. This episode is a collaboration of Ryan's "The Struggle" podcast and my Training For Climbing podcast. I hope you enjoy it! Listen to and subscribe to The Struggle Podcast here >> T4C Podcast sponsor -- Visit PhysiVantage.com the leader in climbing-specific performance nutrition. Get 15% off full-priced items with checkout code: PODCAST15 (North America only). Europe and elsewhere visit EPIC-TV Shop or BananaFingers.com to get your PhysiVantage! SAVE on La Sportiva shoes here >> Thank you! La Sportiva, Maxim Ropes, DMM Climbing, Friction Labs Music by Misty Murphy Follow Eric on Twitter @Train4Climbing Check out Eric’s YouTube channel. Follow Eric on Facebook! And on Instagram at: Training4Climbing Copyright 2025 Eric Hörst | Horst Training, LLC.

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• #114: Common Training Mistakes That May Be Limiting Your Climbing

  The podcast is a classic Eric Hörst tour de force of climbing wisdom! No matter your ability level, training background, or goals, listening to this episode will challenge your current approach and inspire you to reinvent your training for better results. In this hour-long lecture, Coach Hörst breaks down 10 common training mistakes. Chances are, one, two, or maybe even several of these missteps will hit close to home. But don’t get discouraged—get psyched! Identifying these flaws empowers you to train smarter day in and day out, and to course-correct your long-term plan. That’s the key to unlocking more effective training—and real gains on the rock! Start your journey toward better training and harder climbing today! RUNDOWN 0:16 - Welcome statement... 0:53 - Eric introduces the powerful topic of correcting common training mistakes. Whether you're current in a serious training block or just doing weekday maintenance training as a tune-up for weekend sending, this is a must-listen episode.  1:50 - Common Mistake #1: Training without a well-designed and personalized plan for improvement. 5:20 - Mistake #2: Copying someone else’s training program (aka "copy cat training") 9:30 - Mistake #3: Doing the exact same workout over and over without modification, progression, or deload periods. (aka “Groundhog Day” Training) 16:28 - Mistake #4: Doing little or no sub-maximal climbing (aka always projecting, limit climbing, and "competing with yourself"). Listen to the first in a series of five T4C podcasts on Energy System Training >> 25:15 - Mistake #5: Not doing any generalized aerobic training [Brief Commercial Break] - SAVE 15% on PhysiVantage Nutrition >> (code: PODCAST15) 33:45 - Mistake #6: Doing little or no max-strength finger flexor training 40:37 - Mistake #7: Doing little or no antagonist and stabilizer muscle training 44:45 - Mistake #8: Getting drawn into a serious weight lifting, body building, or cross-fit style program 50:00 - Mistake #9: Ignoring -- and training through -- developing aches and pains Listen to T4C podcast #39 on the "Perfect Storm" for climbing injuries >> 59:00 - Mistake #10: Overeating (or undereating) and failing to provide your body with the energy and building blocks needed to gain strength, endurance, resilience, and recovery faster. 1:09:30 - Eric serves up his final thoughts on how you can use the informtion from this podcast to take your climbing to the next level! 1:10:30 - Eric invites you to sign up to his Training For Climbing Newsletter...for a monthly dose (or two) of training content to your inbox! Go to TrainingForClimbing.com and enter your name and email in the pop up box that appears. Contact Eric on Instagram @eric_horst or @training4climbing -- subscribe to Eric's T4C YouTube channel. *** Save 15% on PhysiVantage Nutrition with checkout code: PODCAST15 *** Support the Training For Climbing podcast sponsor, PhysiVantage. Get 15% off full-priced nutrition for strength gains, endurance, recovery, and injury resistance. Use checkout code: PODCAST15 (North America only). Europe and elsewhere visit EPIC-TV Shop or BananaFingers.com to get your PhysiVantage! PLEASE write a 5-star review on Apple Podcasts and SHARE this podcast with a friend! SAVE on La Sportiva shoes here >> Thank you! La Sportiva, Maxim Ropes, DMM Climbing, Friction Labs Music by Misty Murphy Follow Eric on Twitter @Train4Climbing Check out Eric’s YouTube channel. Follow Eric on Facebook! And on Instagram at: Training4Climbing Copyright 2025 Eric Hörst | Horst Training, LLC.

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• #113: A Powerful (and Overlooked) Route Climbing Strategy for Leveling Up!

  In this episode, I reveal a powerful — and often overlooked — strategy for developing the mental, technical, and tactical skills needed to level up your climbing. If you're an intermediate climber passionate about improving — or an advanced climber who's hit a plateau — then this is a must-listen episode. Even veteran climbers and professionals can use this strategy to refine their skills and “sharpen the saw” each season. America’s top sport climber, Jonathan Siegrist, has shared with me that he enjoys and benefits from this approach to route climbing. So, what is this mysterious climbing strategy? Listen in now to find out! RUNDOWN 0:16 - Welcome statement... 0:38 - Eric sets the stage for revealing a powerful route climbing strategy that really can level up your mental and technical climbing skills. This approach to route climbing is NOT "projecting" or "onsight" climbing... (Learn more about projecting from T4C podcasts #76, #53, and #12 4:00 - What is this powerful strategy? 6:19 - Learn the 6 powerful benefits of climbing with the intention for second-go sending of a route. 13:50 - Do you need more endurance? Faster recovery? More stamina when climbing at elevation? Learn about SENDURE-X from PhysiVantage. Save 15% with checkeout code: PODCAST15 at PhysiVantage.com 15:20 - Learn 7 tips and techniques for excelling at second-go climbing 16:05 - 1. Pick the right grade of route for leveraging the second-go strategy. 18:35 - 2. Pick the right belayer to endure the belay duty of your first go! 20:10 - 3. Work the crux sequence thoroughly! Think out of the box and experiment with a range of beta solutions. Take special note of the "feel beta" of you sequence you settle on. 22:10 - 4. Use tickmarks (judiciously) as visual cues for a critical foot or hand hold. 23:00 - 5. Find the obvious rests...and search for inobvious, but possibly vital nuanced rest positions for the send go. 24:05 - 6. Be sure you know the easier sections of climbing -- they might not feel so easy on point! 25:15 - 7. BELIEVE in the second-go send!  27:00 - What to do if you don't send? 29:00 - What's the best ratio of onsight, project, and second-go climbing? 30:30 - Eric's summary tips, comments, and best wishes. Contact Eric on Instagram @eric_horst or @training4climbing -- subscribe to Eric's T4C YouTube channel. *** Save 15% on PhysiVantage Nutrition with checkout code: PODCAST15 *** Support the Training For Climbing podcast sponsor, PhysiVantage. Get 15% off full-priced nutrition for strength gains, endurance, recovery, and injury resistance. Use checkout code: PODCAST15 (North America only). Europe and elsewhere visit EPIC-TV Shop or BananaFingers.com to get your PhysiVantage! PLEASE write a 5-star review on Apple Podcasts and SHARE this podcast with a friend! SAVE on La Sportiva shoes here >> Thank you! La Sportiva, Maxim Ropes, DMM Climbing, Friction Labs Music by Misty Murphy Follow Eric on Twitter @Train4Climbing Check out Eric’s YouTube channel. Follow Eric on Facebook! And on Instagram at: Training4Climbing Copyright 2025 Eric Hörst | Horst Training, LLC.

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• #112: EXPERT: Tips for Optimizing Climbing Training with Dr. Thomas Cunningham

  Welcome to the first episode in a special series of performance-focused conversations with my friend, Dr. Thomas Cunningham. In this fast-paced discussion, we dive into a wide range of topics, including tips for optimizing climbing training, injury prevention, key dietary interventions, performance hacks, and the role of self-discipline and sacrifice. We also explore best practices tailored for hard-training climbers over 35. No matter your age, this episode is packed with actionable insights you can start applying today! RUNDOWN 0:15 - Coach Eric Hörst's welcome statement. 0:30 - Introduction of my guest, Thomas Cunningham, MD. 2:40 - Thomas' bio and backstory  3:20 - "Medicine 3.0" ...aka functional medicine to optimize health and performance. 6:00 - Overview of topics we'll be covering today. 7:35 - Tips for older climbers. 10:00 - The importance of being intentional in your training. 11:00 - Eric's use of 2-a-day workouts. 13:00 - Scheduling your workouts. 15:45 - Specificity of training. 17:30 - Strive for "injury avoidance" mindset. 19:50 - Training and time hacks for busy individuals. 21:00 - Thomas' tips for effective cragging and projecting. 24:00 - The benefits of having a home training wall and/or equipment. 27:50 - Eric's "do something every day" MO for older athletes. 29:00 - Scheduling aerobic vs. anaerobic training sessions. 30:30 - A quick review of some popular training and bio-hacks. 31:35 - Daily protein requirements for hard-training climbers. 33:20 - Pros and cons of fasting... 36:00 - Protein timing and use of supplemental protein for reaching daily protein targets. 38:00 - Thomas and Eric serve up a few things they wish they knew when they were younger climbers. 38:45 - Proactive approach to injuries... 40:15 - Learning to listen to your body's sensations...and heeding its warning signals. 41:20 - Developing self-awareness of your recovery status. 42:20 - The vital importance of actual climbing time (over time spent strength and fitness training). 44:45 - Developing better recovery practices. 46:00 - Importance of a proper warm-up process before climbing. 46:45 - The power of self-discipine and sacrifice in the long-term pursuit of your climbing potential. 48:20 - Eric's metaphor of "taking your foot off the break...and going full gas" with your climbing! 50:35 - Wrap up 50:50 - Contact information for Eric -- DM @eric_horst on Instagram 51:10 - Watch this interview on Eric's T4C YouTube channel. Subscribe! 51:15 - Please leave a review on Apple Podcasts 51:40 - Goodbye and "Hörst Out! *** Save 15% on PhysiVantage Nutrition with checkout code: PODCAST15 *** Support the Training For Climbing podcast sponsor, PhysiVantage. Get 15% off full-priced nutrition for strength gains, endurance, recovery, and injury resistance. Use checkout code: PODCAST15 (North America only). Europe and elsewhere visit EPIC-TV Shop or BananaFingers.com to get your PhysiVantage! PLEASE write a 5-star review on Apple Podcasts and SHARE this podcast with a friend! SAVE on La Sportiva shoes here >> Thank you! La Sportiva, Maxim Ropes, DMM Climbing, Friction Labs Music by Misty Murphy Follow Eric on Twitter @Train4Climbing Check out Eric’s YouTube channel. Follow Eric on Facebook! And on Instagram at: Training4Climbing Copyright 2025 Eric Hörst | Horst Training, LLC.

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