The Podcast on alanarnette.com

The route is in to Camp 2, thus allowing Sherpa rope fixers to begin fixing it to the summit, starting with Camp 3. Sherpas have established Camp 2, also known as Advanced Base Camp, with tents and other supplies. They will begin stocking it with an oxygen bottle soon.
Teams have started their acclimatization rotations to Camps 1 and 2. The ropes are expected to reach the summit around May 14th.
Everest permits are nearing 2024's record of 479, generating nearly $7 million in permit revenue alone.

Climb On!
Alan
Memories are Everything

We may finally see how climate change has impacted climbing Mt. Everest: melting seracs threatening climbers, and helicopters used to bypass the icefall.
First, let's clarify that the Icefeall is not blocked and is passable. The issue is a large, unstable hanging serac that, if it fell onto the Icefall with climbers there, dozens could be killed, making it much worse than the 16 taken in a similar event in 2014. There are conflicting reports about a route to Camp 1. But others say it's still too dangerous because of rockfall, and the ice serac in question remains.There are 410 Everest permits issued, so with 1.5 Sherpas per permit and 0.2 cooks, there are around 1,200 people at EBC, by my estimation. I've seen other reports with three times that many. #everest2026
Climb On!
Alan
Memories are Everything
https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2026/04/27/everest-2026-april-27-weekend-update-icefall-route-in/

After waiting as long as two weeks, climbers on Annapurna, Makalu and Dhaulagiri finally stood on the summit. But Everest lags as the route from EBC to the Western Cwm is stalled. EverestER is already busy, having seen over 100 patients thus far this season. It's over for Ryan Mitchell. #everest2026
Climb On!
Alan
Memories are Everything
https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2026/04/19/everest-2026-april-19-weekend-update-8000er-summits-icefall-woes

Teahouses are buzzing, the trails are full, the yaks are loaded–as are the porters bearing unbelievable loads. Yes, the Khumbu is alive. But the weather is poor for some of the 8000ers.
Climb On!
Alan
Memories are Everything
https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2026/04/12/everest-2026-april-12-weekend-update-the-khumbu-is-alive/

In this weekend update, I cover a lot of ground, primarily around misinformation regarding "Everest Guides Poisoning Clients" - FALSE. The actual issue is a large-scale insurance fraud scheme targeting trekkers (not climbers) across Nepal's trekking circuits, involving fake helicopter evacuations and hospital stays.

Additionally, Global Rescue will not provide longline rescues above Camp 2 this year due to a lack of qualified pilots, which will fundamentally change expectations for climber safety.  We also look at heavy snow delaying summits on Annapurna and, of course, a status update on Ryan Mitchell.

Climb On!
Alan
Memories are Everything
https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2026/04/05/everest-2026-april-5-weekend-update-debunking-poison-rumors/