On The Scent

From a listener’s mystery novel set in a perfume shop, refillable candles, a handsome man holding a bouquet by a fireside and where to find vintage fragrance posters - this episode is a veritably bulging postbag of perfume-matching pondering!

Kathy (aka Kat LaGue) is a long-time listener and author of two ‘cosy mystery’ novels set in a fictional perfume shop of her hometown, Baltimore, Maryland. You can read all about her work here: https://katlague.com

With her first ever signing event happening in May, Kathy ‘thought it might be fun to bring a bit of the shop experience to the table by offering pre-sprayed blotters for people to sniff.’ For the first book she wanted a leathery/rose Chypre; for the second, the smell of a ‘kouign-amann, the glorious Breton butter cake. I’d love to find a fragrance, or even a layering combination, that evokes caramelized sugar, rich butter, and just a hint of salt.’

We suggested…

For the leathery rose Chypre:

Angela Flanders Leather Rosa
‘Inspired by the soft and sensual quality of leather with its naturally dry aroma, yet warm skin like touch. Leather Rosa is a new dark rose scent, deep and bewitching in nature, cherished rosa damascena, but dressed this time in a coat of the finest vintage leather.
Sophisticated and elegant notes of exotic agar wood and smoky oudh add a leathery tobacco accord, while the warmth of amber makes an appearance in the base of this sensuous combination cherishing a heart of rosa damascena and a sweet top note of rose du mai and raspberry.’

Hermès Kelly Calèche
‘Kelly Caleche is a nod to two iconic Hermès objects: the Kelly bag and the caleche, a horse-drawn carriage and the House's signature. Kelly Caleche was created in 2007 by perfumer Jean-Claude Ellena. This "perfume exuding leather and flowers, as light as an angel's wing" is dedicated to women who exhibit free-spirited elegance and whose unisex equestrian style refuses to take itself too seriously.
A floral and leathery fragrance, Kelly Caleche Eau de Parfum combines the opulent notes of rose with powdery mimosa, along with the enveloping character of benzoin.’

For the second book:

Maison Margiela Afternoon Delight
‘Afternoon Delight captures a moment of self-indulgence, transporting you to a Parisian café where the uplifting aroma of warm madeleines fills the air. This sweet yet light, ambery gourmand fragrance evokes moments of joyful escapism.

At the heart of the fragrance is a Madeleine accord, evoking Afternoon Delight perfume’s sense of comfort and conjuring a moment of “me time,” where the quotidian fades away. This blends with the creamy and woody notes of sandalwood, while the deliciousness of Madagascan vanilla pod lingers in the fragrance. These notes all capture the memory of an enveloping moment for oneself.’

Frassäi Blondine
‘Once upon a time, in a faraway land, a fair and gentle princess grows up beloved by her father, surrounded by precious jewels, exotic fruits and mouthwatering dainties. When left behind in an enchanted forest by a deceitful coachman, BLONDINE is captivated by the most beautiful flowers she has ever seen. Rejoicing in their profusion and delighting in their perfume, she commences to fill her hat and pockets with them, until she finds herself farther and farther away from home. A fragrant tale of alluring florals, decadent sweets, and enigmatic musks, where courage and hope are the key to living happily ever after; here Blondine’s story begins.
Green mandarin, pear leaves, salted butter caramel, tiger lily, ashok flower, cocoa, castoreum, blond musks, and tonka beans.’

Kylie Cosmetics Caramel Cloud Hair & Body Mist
‘Caramel Cloud is a warm, ambery gourmand hair and body mist that envelops the senses with a smooth, buttery fragrance profile. The scent opens with rich notes of almond and pistachio butter, creating a nutty foundation that melts into a heart of caramel and brown sugar accords for a toasted, sweet character. At the base, soft musk and pure vanilla extract leave a delicious, cloud-like finish on both skin and hair.’

(Layered with…)

Demeter Fragrance Library Pretzel (available in Cologne, Bath & Body Oil, Body Lotion, Perfume Oil)
‘Savour the iconic aroma of a New York Style Warm Pretzel. This fragrance captures the essence of freshly baked dough, lightly salted and perfectly warm, creating a scent that is both comforting and nostalgic. This fragrance will transport you to the bustling streets of New York City.’

Penhaligon’s Changing Constance
‘Constance is what one might call A Very Modern Woman. She has no regard for custom, and does exactly as she likes. Cool cardamom, hot pimento, salted caramel - her contrary perfume breaks every rule.
Key notes: cardamom, salted butter, caramel, tobacco.’

PHLUR Caramel Skin Body Mist
‘Decadent, deep and full of warmth. Caramel Skin is a deliciously sweet sensation that sparks desire, with refined sophistication and bold attitude. The dance between spun caramel, brown sugar and vanilla provide an indulgent and tantalizing taste. Bergamot adds brightness, while creamy sandalwood and musk elevate the fragrance into a confident and sensual symphony. Caramel Skin Body Mist is sweet, sexy and simply irresistible.’

For B.O’Riodan, who’s ‘rying to be a more discerning shopper’ and wants to find fragrance candles where you can buy a refill separately, we recommend…

Lords Fragrance House Candle Refills
‘A new harder vegetable stearin wax formulation that allows us to make refills to slot into your pots! Available in 3 scents, Positano, Yellowstone and Oxfordshire. These fit our classic 1 wick vessel and our ceramic stripe vessel.’

TOLD London Candle Refills
‘This refill is hand-poured in the UK with 100% natural wax for a clean, long-lasting burn. Designed to refresh your Told London illustrated porcelain vessel, it delivers the same fine scent while reducing waste.’
The Constant Candle Company (the one that Nicola promised she'd mention in the notes)
"Constant Candle supplies everything you need to create a new candle sustainably - direct to your door. Pre-fragranced luxury eco-friendly candle wax to heat and pour into a candle holder of your choice, cotton wick plus a wooden wick holder together with instructions and videos."

Also try: finding a candle-making workshop near you. Many of them ask that you bring your own vessels to be filled!

Rachel Cooke loves wearing men’s fragrances, but is looking for something pretty specific, scent-wise. Namely, one that smells like ‘a sexy bearded man in a suit that’s smells typically masculine but he’s holding a beautiful bunch of fragrant flowers but also in front of an open a fire!!’

We thought these might night the spot…

Floris Leather Oud
‘Leather Oud has an opulent, deep sensual note of rich earthy vetiver and warm amber that combines beautifully with rose and sandalwood. Leather Oud has an opulent, deep sensual note of rich earthy vetiver and warm amber that combines beautifully with rose and sandalwood.
Top notes: bergamot, leather
Heart notes: carnation, geranium, oudh, patchouli
Base notes: oudh, vetiver, woody amber.’

Penhaligon’s The Cut
‘Penhaligon's The Cut Eau de Parfum is a refined blend of spices and woods. Opening with an energetic twist of saffron, nutmeg, and coriander, the fragrance is stitched together with remarkable precision, offering a bold yet refined first impression.
The heart unfolds with cistus labdanum, rose, and incense, creating a smoky, resinous warmth softened by a floral undertone. This sophisticated harmony evokes the swagger of Savile Row, where clary sage strides confidently, followed by lavender’s dignified applause.
In the base, patchouli, cedarwood atlas, and sandalwood deliver a deep, grounding finish. The result is a long-lasting fragrance of elegance and character, perfectly suited to both men and women who appreciate classic craftsmanship with a modern twist.

Parfums de Marly Layton
‘Layton blends juicy apple with calming lavender, wrapped in the earthy depth of patchouli. Elegant, sensual and flamboyant.

Top Notes: apple, bergamot, cardamom
Heart Notes: lavender, violet, geranium
Base Notes: patchouli, vanilla, guaic wood,praline.’

Horace Oud Rose
‘Oud Rose is refined yet extravagant, like wearing a leopard-print tuxedo to the opera. Geranium Rose and Rosemary offer a vibrant aromatic freshness. At the heart, a sensual, freshly cut Rose blends with a deep Patchouli. Finally, Oud, Cypriol and Sandalwood create a mysterious intensity.’

Anforh Sorn
‘Smoky, leathery, and floral with a deep amber resonance. Sorn is the most ornate and expressive of the three Anforh fragrances: indulgent but refined, modern yet vintage in structure.
From the Scots word “sorn” (to linger by charm or persuasion), Sorn is a fragrance of memory and atmosphere. It captures the sense of what remains - the warmth in the air, the trace on the fabric, the echo of an evening.
Top notes: pimento berry (allspice), clove bud, bergamot
Heart notes:...

How do you discover which fragrances evoke your personality, or find those perfumes that portray the character you’d like to be, rather than how you happen to feel that day? In this episode we reply to a listener’s email asking for help finding her perfect perfume(s), and discuss how we went about discovering our own perfume identities.

Then, we answer another listener’s question about scenting a wedding (including how to find fragrances evoking the evening, and the practicalities of perfuming an event)…

We suggested Jennifer tries:

The Raconteur Ms Macadamia: ‘A scent for those who value their independence and always leave room for a delicious slice of adventure. Go nuts!’ The powdery orris in this feels creamy with the macadamia, the prettiness of peach bolstered by grounding vetiver and vanilla. We love the poem that accompanies it!

‘Not here for likes, not here for follows Chasing the sun, not shadows to follow Built for love, she can’t help herself Not trying to be anyone—just herself Got a big heart, she’s street smart She knows the rules, but tears them apart Backs herself, always has a go Has the scars from letting go Looks to the stars for signs from above Knows that longing is part of love Always find her on the dance floor Always know, she backs up for more! Fear doesn’t faze her, it just rusts Some say she’s crazy... maybe even, ...nuts.’

Vyrao Ludatrix: ‘Naughty notes of lipstick and latex entwine with powdery rose, energising sichuan pepper and courage-enhancing orris to cast Ludatrix’s enticing and empowered spell. Tantalising ambrette for igniting arousal is layered with voluptuous cedarwood, sandalwood and olibanum for positivity and protection, while a potent blend of ambrox and musk sparks sensuality. Bold and boundless desire, bottled.’

Goutal Tenue de Soirée: A glorious waxy, lipstick powder scent paired with leather, creating an intimate boudoir-rescue cosmetic aroma. While it doesn’t include tuberose, it does use rose, iris and patchouli with a soft white musk, exuding beauty and inner-strength.

Byredo Rose of No Man’s Land: ‘The fragrance embodies the quiet power that comes from acts of kindness, with the delicate Rosa Damascena at its heart, enhanced by the bright freshness of Pink Pepper and Turkish Rose Petals. A lush blend of Raspberry Blossom and Turkish Rose Absolute creates a rich floral depth, while a base of Amber and Papyrus adds warmth and complexity. This fragrance captures grace, inner strength, and the enduring spirit of empathy.’

Hauto by Jeroboam (Extrait de Parfum): A potent extrait that beautifully blends a mix of intense white florals with a very powdery, almost "bubblegummy" lipstick feel, and is incredibly long-lasting without being overwhelming. It also has something of a steelier / silvery backbone.

Floris Tuberose in Silk (Eau de Parfum): This one specifically combines tuberose with powdery iris and orange blossom top notes, giving it a sophisticated and slightly vintage makeup scent vibe but still with an effortlessly modern feel.

Nishane Tuberóza X: ‘Entrusted to the talent of Master Perfumer Dominique Ropion, this interpretation of Nishane's iconic white floral pays homage to the captivating scent of tuberose blossoms swaying under a starry sky. Built around an exquisite Indian Tuberose Absolute from the Laboratoires Monique Rémy, Tuberóza X is more vegetal than its older version, its greenness here tinged with a bright Violet accord while the sultry character of this supreme flower remains boldened by fruity and narcotic accents of Ylang-Ylang.’

Em @truckstrailsandfails wants to scent her wedding with fragrances that imbue her personality and can evoke the evening itself.

We suggest:

Having scented candles / diffusers to fragrance the venue and set a scented theme for your wedding which guests will always remember.

Name tables after your favourite fragrances and have themed decor / floral displays on each, or simply have that scent on a display as the table’s central focus, with decants or mini samples of the scent for guests to take away.

Purchase mini ceramic discs from a craft shop, having ribbons printed with your names & the date of the wedding, and having them on place settings or piled near the perfume display. Then, inviting guests to spray their discs with a chosen scent to remind them of the celebrations.

So - do you think you’ve found YOUR ‘perfume personality yet, or does it change all the time? And how would you want to scent your wedding or a big event? Let us know via DMs @onthescentpodcast on Instagram!

We’re counting down the days until you can get hold of your very own On The Scent
Magazine – in print and online – when it launches on April 14 th . In this week’s
episode we welcome guest Jo Fairley, who explains why the magazine was so
important to launch, what you can expect to read in the first issue, and why fragrance
is continuing to absolutely bloom and blossom.
Jo also talks about some of the fragrances she’s been most excited by, recently,
mentioning...
Schiaparelli Shocking
Essential Parfums
Bienaime
Givenchy London Confidential
Fouquet Collection (Eight & Bob)
For all the latest news on our magazine and forthcoming events, follow us
@onthescentmedia
You’ll be able to order your magazines from www.onthescentmedia.com – sign up
now to join our mailing list!

Immersive perfume spaces are popping up all over the place lately, and Soace NK recently invited people to step into an olfactive art gallery, featuring some of the hottest new fragrance launches around. Here’s what we tried (and loved the most)…
Space NK’s Granary Square Kings Cross pop up promised you could ‘Step into our immersive fragrance gallery and get creative with scent. Delve into masterpieces by Phlur, Glossier and more, and learn how to express yourself through scent. You'll take on the role of both curator and artist as you move through the space, before leaving with an exclusive goodie bag*.’
We smelled:

DedCool Mineral Milk
‘This dreamy perfume combines notes of coastal lavender, ocean air, marine salt, amber milk, Virginia cedar and Australian sandalwood. The result is a subtle scent that can be worn on its own or used as a base to layer other perfumes. It can be described as a fragrance that smells like skin, only better.’

Escentric Molecules 01 + Champaca
‘This modern scent offers a rich, floral journey, as elements of sweet jasmine entwine with orange flowers, and the earthiness of tea. Designed to unfold over time, it dries down to reveal enduringly soft and creamy trails.
As part of the brand’s extraordinary M+ line, Escentric Molecules M+ Champaca has the super aroma Iso E Super as its base. This velvety, warm fragrance enhancer delivers gentle hints of vanilla and musk, and brings out the olfactory beauty of other aromas. Here, it’s blended with champaca to showcase the Indian bloom’s honeyed, floral charm.’

Glossier You Soie
‘Find a truly unique signature scent with Glossier You Soie Eau de Parfum, a sensual, floral personal fragrance that smells different on every wearer. This personal fragrance is designed to be fresh and genderless.
Long lasting and refined, the You Soie fragrance opens with a top note of bergamot. At its heart are notes of rice milk, jasmine and tiare water. The base is warm and musky thanks to a base note of ambrox.’

Parfums de Marly Delina (& flankers)
Delina Exclusif: “This enchanting floral parfum offers a deeper, richer and more sensual interpretation of the original Delina scent, layering fruit, rose and woods.
This highly wearable fragrance opens with bright and fruity notes of pear, lychee and grapefruit, followed by a heart of Damascena rose, incense and vetiver that adds a floral depth with a hint of smoke. A soft base of vanilla, musk and evernyl rounds out the scent with smooth warmth.’

Phlur Honey Moon
‘Calm the mood with PHLUR Honey Moon Eau de Parfum, an eau de parfum inspired by gentle renewal and slow transformation. This floral fragrance unfolds with a warm, grounded character that feels softly expressive and quietly assured.
The opening blends mandarin and lavender, bringing light citrus notes balanced by aromatic freshness. At the heart, orange blossom and Manuka honey add smooth, nectar-like warmth, enriched by saffron for subtle depth. These notes create a rounded, comforting presence. As the scent settles, tonka, vanilla bean and sandalwood form a mellow base with lingering warmth.’

Kayali Sweet Peach / Plush Pear
Sweet Peach: ‘The fragrance starts with a burst of juicy peach, crisp red apple and citrussy bergamot before flowing into a core of creamy frangipani and other floral notes. A complex base of earthy, woody and gourmand aromas rounds off this long-lasting perfume.’

Plush Pear: ‘Calm the mood with PHLUR Honey Moon Eau de Parfum, an eau de parfum inspired by gentle renewal and slow transformation. This floral fragrance unfolds with a warm, grounded character that feels softly expressive and quietly assured.
The opening blends mandarin and lavender, bringing light citrus notes balanced by aromatic freshness. At the heart, orange blossom and Manuka honey add smooth, nectar-like warmth, enriched by saffron for subtle depth. These notes create a rounded, comforting presence. As the scent settles, tonka, vanilla bean and sandalwood form a mellow base with lingering warmth.’

Ellis Brooklyn Isla Sirena
‘fragrance inspired by a sunlight escape and island warmth.
Top notes of Blue Java banana, creamy papaya, sea salt and lime bring a fresh, lightly fruity opening. At the heart, coconut water and vanilla orchid soften the profile along with ginger flower for gentle warmth. These notes give the EDP a smooth, sun-warmed character. The base settles into vetiver, brown sugar and teak wood, adding depth and lasting warmth.’

In some Middle Eastern cultures, people layer up to SEVEN fragrances at a time. Sometimes many more! Never be afraid to play with perfume. (The wonderful thing about fragrance is there is no right or wrong: if you like something, then it’s right. If you don’t, you can wash it off. It’s not a tattoo after all.)
One listener recently wrote in with a specific question about layering options throughout the day (and into the evening); but before we get to that, we go back to basics and tell you ALL the things you need to know about layering (without overwhelming yourself or others!) in an easy how-to guide…
First: Decide what you are layering for. To make a scent last longer? Or so you can add more nuance / alter an aspect you’re not as fond of (eg you want to make it sweeter, or cut through the sweetness)? Or perhaps to carry a daytime scent through to more a sultry evening vibe?
The best way to begin layering is to practice with an existing fragrance you wish had more oomph: Start by selecting a scent you like a lot but wish could last even longer / add more character to.
Then, before you spray a single drop…
Moisturise, moisturise, moisturise! Particularly in warmer climates. Nothing makes fragrance disappear more quickly than dry skin. Try using a matching body lotion or oil to your fragrance (many have matching products like shower gels as well – the more layers of the scent the better!) Aroma molecules evaporate far slower on well-hydrated skin.
For the truly devoted, layering with matching scented body products can create a beautifully nuanced aroma.
Try also spraying the scent into your hair, so it wafts around you all day. Hair doesn’t heat up as much as skin, and will absorb the smell more deeply. It also billows beguiling around you all day if you have longer hair. Do a patch test, first, to ensure the fragrance doesn’t discolour your hair (spray on a tissue to be sure!) Be on the lookout for matching hair mists to your favourite perfume - increasing numbers of brands do these, now.
Next: add a body mist (again, a huge number of fragrance houses releasing these versions of beloved favourites).
Now: Spray your fragrance. This can be done immediately or, if you just want the subtlety of the mist to breathe on its own for the morning, you can carry a travel bottle or decant of an eau de toilette or eau de parfum to top up layer in the day.
Suzy’s top tip is to spray a scarf (or jacket lining) with your chosen scent, as fragrance lasts way longer on fabric (like hair, it’s more porous and doesn’t heat up as much as skin, the aroma molecules don’t evaporate as quickly).
If you’re wanting to increase the longevity of a perfume that’s proving to be annoyingly fleeting, you may also add an ‘amplifier’ or fragrance booster. Several of these are available, but some of the best known ones are:
Escentric Molecules Molecule 01: Primarily Iso E Super, which gives a velvety, cedarwood skin-like scent that boosts longevity and creates a personal musky aroma.
Juliette Has a Gun Not a Perfume: A minimalist scent featuring cetalox, making it a popular choice for adding a cleaner, soft white musky enhancement.
DS&DURGA I Don’t Know WhatA unique fragrance enhancer that acts as a "molecular primer" to boost, lengthen, and add depth to other scents with notes of bergamot, Iso E Super, vetiver, and civetone
Ellis Brooklyn Iso Gamma Super: A "green chemistry" synthetic booster that acts similarly to enhance woody and amber notes. Glossier You
Clive Christian E Cashmere Musk

If you’re wanting to change the character of a scent or add depth to it, consider these options…
If it’s too sweet:Look for another scent in your collection (or to add one) that has dominant citrus notes like bergamot, neroli, mandarin, lemon, lime or ‘green’ notes such as galbanum, tomato or violet leaf, green tea, marine/aquatic accords (synthetic recreations of sea-like, watery smells) and aldehydes (often described as being like Champagne bubbles).
To soften more aggressive scent:
Vanilla and tonka bean can ’round’ a perfume, making it swoon on your skin (and addictive to smell), as can touches of synthetic notes described as ‘caramel’ or ‘dulce de leche’, ripe fruits, chocolate or even candy floss. For a smoother, woodier sheen to a scent, add a sandalwood-rich or cashmere/powdery scent on top. These notes feel cocooning, adding a layer of soft comfort to spikier ingredients.
If you want to add several layers of differing scents - build your bespoke scent as a perfumer would a formula: from the base (heavier notes like resins, woods and strong spices) through florals / fruity notes, to top (lighter) notes like citrus / grassy / green aromas.
Try to add less than you think you need, as adding more is always easier than taking away, and a little of these can go a long way!
Layering from day to evening:Consider boosting the base notes of the scent you’re wearing – these tend to be the last to linger on your skin, being made of heavier molecules, and are likely to include ingredients such as patchouli, labdanum, olibanum, vetiver, woods or musk. Or pick out a spicy note for extra sizzle!
Also think about investing in a stronger version of your scent – an eau de parfum, if you use the eau de toilette; or an extrait or pure parfum if you have the edp. Do try these on skin first (separately) though, as often these intensified versions add other ‘guest’ ingredients, rather than just being stringer. Also be aware pure parfum / perfume oils / attars while lasting longer on skin, tend not to project as much - so they’re more intimate and others have to be in close proximity to smell them on you.
Now, on to our listener question…
Nancy Lichtman asked:Hello Suzy and Nicola! Thanks for your lovely and fragrant weekly distractions from the grind of daily life.
I would love to hear suggestions and ideas for day to night fragrances or better yet, fragrance layering. Here’s what I mean: every year I attend a three-day conference (military expo) for work. I spend all day meeting people, making connections for future articles for the magazine I edit, and podcasting from the convention center floor. So I’m in close quarters and don’t want to overwhelm everyone with my perfume. On the second night there’s a black-tie gala but I’m always in a rush to get ready.
So I’ve been trying to think of day to night layering. The only thing I came up with was Jo Malone London Poppy & Barley for day with Jo Malone London Scarlett Poppy for the gala.
I’d love to hear both of your thoughts on this.
Again, thank you for what you do!!
Nancy L.x
Suzy seems to recall Nancy once had a request for a dazzling / golden smelling scent for a special occasion, and that she prescribed Goldfield & Banks Ingenious Ginger. That has notes of:
So, taking that as an example, you could wear…
In the morning:A citrus fresh shower gel / body lotionA sparkling citrusy body mistThroughout the day:An eau de Cologne in a travel mist you could top up as needed. Or, Escentric Molecules 01 + Mandarin.Then in the evening:spray a vial / decant of your Goldfield & Banks Ingenious Ginger.
The citrus / mandarin links both fragrances so wouldn’t smell muddled, and the ISO E Super would meld everything together and enhance both the body mist or Cologne, and the edp you spray in the evening.
If you wanted to do the Jo Malone London Poppy & Barley for the day, look at the notes:
Top - BlackcurrantIntensely juicy and ripe, it gives a crisp edge to the fragrance.Heart - PoppyA colourful, floral note and adds a fresh and crispy facet