Peru: In Tropical Lands with Iain Sinclair

Send us a textWe drive up into the high plains of Metraro and the community of Mariscal Caceres. This was the heartland of Frederick Stahl, the Seventh-day Adventist missionary and his legacy lives on.We hear first hand about the last days of the Peruvian Colony from one of  its last surviving workers, Elias, but we also hear about the Mishari Family and how the Asheninka organised and fought  back to gain control of their land.  Finally,  we persuade the chief to take us to the location of the secret cave of  Juan Santos Atahualpa,  buried with his gold  over 200 years ago. The chief sets off on his motorbike to show us the way,  and we give chase. 

Send us a textJoined by a small family of Asheninka translators,  Farne and Iain drive along the banks of the River Perene to the village of Pampa Michi, amongst the tourist welcome, they persuade the chief Fredi Miguel Ucayali to be interviewed. His is a sobering account of the Peru Corporation’s takeover of these lands which is shocking to hear first-hand. In Marankiari they stay with the Asheninka for a few days and feel they get a bit closer to life behind the scenes of the village, they talk to Berta Rodriguez, the mother of the chief, who at 80 years old can remember the old Asheninka beliefs.They celebrate Farne’s birthday with the tribe, and share photographs of King Chokery and his Queen, and suddenly the pictures come alive with meaning.The chief Osbaldo Rodriguez is able to shed some light on events from the past, and in return they are able to share copies of the original land contract.Iain and Farne make it to the border town of Pichinaki to mull over events, and consider whether to travel on into the Whirlpool of the Dead.

Send us a textFarne and Iain leave  Arthur at the convent making preparations for his journey and take a detour to Lucho’s farm. As they plan the next stage of their journey, Lucho tells them the story of how he came to acquire his land, and gives them some clues to how land is bargained for in Peru, and what ownership means to the Asheninka.Arthur sets off again with 14 people and 20 mules, and Farne and Iain are also on their way to find the mysteriously named Mountain of Salt, when events take a curious turn with misunderstandings and hidden agendas. Lucho takes off and they are left lodging in a half- abandoned hotel, wondering where he has gone.As they sit outside in  darkness, they contemplate how things are becoming stranger the lower they descend and they are joined by a few family ghosts.  

Send us a textThe descent down to the jungle begins. Iain and Farne follow Arthur’s mule route down through Acobamba to search for  the Convent of San Luis de Shuaro where Arthur’s expedition had letters of introduction to the Catholic Priest, Padre Sala. A number of coincidences convince them they are on the right track, and it feels like they have been expected. An elderly lady sitting in the town square, Maria Leon Perez, turns out to be an old friend of Lucho’s father, and she agrees to talk to them, telling them more about San Luis, Padre Sala, and the activities of the Catholic church.They are able to go into the church itself and stand on the foundations of the original convent where Arthur had slept. That night they make it to Lucho’s Farm in the cloud forest, and reflect on the strange events of the day, and how a mysterious old lady will always appear to help you when you need it most, if you can put yourself in the right place at the right time.