69 episodes
- Once you have a few years of buying behind you, the hardest part of the job is rarely the product or the numbers. It is getting your range decisions through the business when your merchandiser, supply chain, allocation team and senior managers all have a different view of what the range should be. In this episode, Elisabeth shares how experienced fashion buyers handle push-back, difficult people and tough conversations across the product development process, from concept to the shop floor.
In this episode:
• Why most "difficult" colleagues are working to a different number, and how to turn an intake cut into a conversation about phasing
• The three types of people who are hardest to work with in a buying office, and a different approach for each
• How to stay calm and commercial when your range is criticised in front of senior managers
• How to build influence with supply chain, allocation, VM and technical teams when you have no direct authority over them
To see where your strengths sit as a buyer and which areas are worth working on next, take the free Buyer-Ready Assessment:
If you would like to develop your fashion buying knowledge from concept to customer, explore the Thrive in Fashion Buying and Merchandising course at designdirectiveme.com - When a market goes soft, the instinct is to assume demand has disappeared. It usually hasn't. Your customer is still there, but she's taking longer to decide, buying one item where she used to buy two, and waiting for a reason to commit.
In this episode, Elisabeth Mac Hale breaks down what actually needs your attention when trade slows down: full price sell-through, forward cover, intake phasing, and the commitments sitting behind your OTB.
She walks through why a decision that looks safe for one buyer, like pulling a delivery forward, can become a real cost once you multiply it across a team, and what separates buyers who hold their credibility in a difficult season from those who don't.
Key Takeaway
In a soft market, the question changes from "will this sell" to "when will it sell, and at what margin". The buyers who navigate this well can account for every unit of their commitments, not just their product choices.
Links & Resources
Online Buying Course: Thrive in Fashion Buying
Connect with Elisabeth:
Instagram: @designdirectivedubai
LinkedIn: Elisabeth Mac Hale
Website: The Design Directive
If this episode was useful, a review on Apple Podcasts helps it reach more buyers navigating the same conditions. - What do you do when your sales are on plan but your margin has dropped. In this episode Elisabeth explains why that happens, what it tells you about the quality of your sales rather than the volume, and the questions to ask in your Monday trade meeting to find the cause before it grows into a bigger and costly problem,
IN THIS EPISODE
· Why margin is driven by the value and mix of what you sell, not by the number of units that leave the shop floor
· The five most common causes of a margin drop, from a markdown rate above plan to movement in your landed cost
· How a shift in product mix inside a single category can cost you several points of margin while sales still look healthy
· The six diagnostic questions and what each one tells you about where to act
GO DEEPER
If you want to understand how margin is calculated, how to phase your product, and what weekly actions to take when your figures start to move, that is the commercial framework the Thrive in Fashion Buying and Merchandising course was built to teach:
https://designdirectiveme.com/online-fashion-buying-course
If you would like to develop your fashion buying knowledge from concept to customer, explore the Thrive in Fashion Buying and Merchandising course at designdirectiveme.com - When a range underperforms, the initial assumption is almost always that the product was wrong. It sometimes is. In this episode, Elisabeth goes through the small number of reasons ranges that contribute to a poor trading range, what a proper category analysis includes compared to the blame conversation that some buying offices run instead.
In this episode:
· Diagnose an underperforming range against the real causes:
· Run a category analysis that produces information rather than defensiveness, mid-season as well as end of season
· Review the option-level data, including the sell-through, markdown and margin analysis most buyers don't pull.
· Read the same sell-through figure two ways, and understand why 68 per cent can be either a success or a significant failure
The full commercial framework behind this kind of diagnosis, from intake phasing through to markdown strategy, is here:
If you would like to develop your fashion buying knowledge from concept to customer,
explore the Thrive in Fashion Buying and Merchandising course at designdirectiveme.com
COURSE DETAILS
https://designdirectiveme.com/online-fashion-buying-course
Have a Question - Ask Elisabeth
https://designdirectiveme.com/contact - There are lots of questions in buying that are left unanswered. In this episode, Elisabeth Mac Hale answers some of those directly: these are questions that come up repeatedly from buyers at different stages of their careers, and that the person asking rarely wants to raise out loud.
In this episode:
- How to know if your OTB figure is right
- What to do when a supplier keeps pushing back the delivery date
- Do you have to choose between product instinct and commercial data
- Why the feeling that everyone else in the room knows something you don't is not unusual
- When the right time to put yourself forward for more responsibility
To build the commercial foundations that underpin all of these questions, explore the Buyer's Toolkit Mini Course:
To go deeper and develop your fashion buying career sills from concept to customer, explore the Thrive in Fashion Buying course
Website and Podcast Notes DESIGN DIRECTIVE
Email your questions Hello@thriveinfashion.com
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About Thrive in Fashion Buying and Merchandising
This podcast "Thrive in Fashion" is your ultimate guide to navigating the dynamic world of FASHION BUYING & MERCHANDISING. Hosted by Elisabeth Mac Hale, a seasoned fashion buyer and industry consultant, this podcast is designed for aspiring buyers, fashion graduates & boutique owners, passionate about the fashion business.
Each episode explores different aspects of fashion buying, from trend analysis and product development to retail strategy. Elisabeth shares her wealth of experience, offering practical insights and industry tips, to help you build a successful career in fashion buying.
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