Written in Stone tells the (mostly) true stories of the most groundbreaking ascents in rock climbing history, one decade at a time. Hosted by Kris Hampton, you’...
Andy Salo and Whitney Boland on Lynn Hill and a Love of Gunks Climbing
Andy Salo and Whitney Boland are modern day Gunks legends. Andy has FA’d some of the hardest routes in the area and co-written the brilliant guidebooks to the area. Whitney moved to the area and gained near instant local status, eventually writing the Flashback series about Gunks legends, which you can find both in Andy’s guidebooks and on the Rock and Snow website.
In this episode, we discuss the scene and history at The Gunks, what factors contributed to the Gunks being such a powerhouse in the 80’s, and what it’s like to be a short woman in climbing.
Check out our website for related episodes, resources and more!
Join the Secret Stoners Club for FREE and get bonus episodes.
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Season Two is generously supported by Rab.
This episode is supported by Tension Climbing. Use code WRITTEN15 at checkout.
Written in Stone is co-created with Power Company Climbing.
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1:30:43
Russ Clune on Lynn Hill, Gunks Climbing and Vandals
Russ Clune is a Legend. I once introduced him as climbing's Forrest Gump, because since the 1980's he's been there for many of climbing's most impactful moments. A Gunks local who has traveled widely to climb on every type of rock, in every style imaginable, he's a living thread from before sport climbing to now, and if you're ever lucky enough to meet him, will eagerly regale you with those stories.
In this episode, we discuss:
Lynn Hill’s arrival on the Gunks climbing scene.
Working on Vandals with Lynn.
When Lynn became THE Lynn Hill.
The pros and cons of the yoyo tactic.
Clune's new book, The Lifer: Rock Climbing Adventures in the Gunks and Beyond
This week our patrons, The Secret Stoners Club, get's a bonus conversation with Russ discussing Jerry Moffatt, Wolfgang Gullich, Patrick Edlinger and more. Join for free and be entered to win a free copy of The Lifer!
Check out our website for related episodes, resources and more!
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Season Two is generously supported by Rab.
This episode is supported by Tension Climbing. Use code WRITTEN15 at checkout.
Written in Stone is co-created with Power Company Climbing.
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43:55
Lynn Hill Vandalizes Perception
In 1983, after years of climbing on Yosemite's granite cracks with John Long and the Stonemasters, Lynn Hill went on a roadtrip. First to Arizona, then to Colorado and finally Red Rock, outside of Las Vegas. While on the road, she and Long established some of the most classic routes in the country. After a brief foray into Hollywood stunts, Lynn traveled to the Gunks to climb for a magazine article and photoshoot.
What happened next is history.
Join the Secret Stoners Club for FREE and get bonus episodes and giveaways!
Check out Climbing Free by Lynn Hill
Check out The Lifer by Russ Clune
Check out our website for related episodes, resources and more!
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Season Two is generously supported by Rab.
This episode is supported by Tension Climbing. Use code WRITTEN15 at checkout.
Written in Stone is co-created with Power Company Climbing.
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43:54
Niall Grimes on Moffatt, Revelations and What Jerry Means to Climbing
Many climbers put Jerry Moffatt’s book, Revelations, on the top of their list. This is in no small part due to the work of Niall Grimes, who co-wrote the Banff Mountain Book Festival Grand Prize Winner. Niall is an Irish climbing legend who lives in Sheffield, and the host of the hilarious, story filled Jam Crack Climbing Podcast.
In this episode we discuss what Jerry Moffatt’s name meant in the early days, why Niall’s first meeting with Jerry resulted in Jerry naked and tied to a pipe, and the influence that Jerry has and continues to have over Sheffield climbing.
Revelations by Jerry Moffatt and Niall Grimes
Jam Crack Climbing Podcast
Niall’s article My Map of the World
Niall’s article King of the Crag
Check out our website for related episodes, resources and more!
Join the Secret Stoners Club for FREE and get bonus episodes.
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Season Two is generously supported by Rab.
This episode is supported by Tension Climbing. Use code WRITTEN15 at checkout.
This episode is supported by our research partner, NOLS: The National Outdoor Leadership School.
Written in Stone is co-created with Power Company Climbing.
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1:20:16
Jerry Moffatt is the Best Climber in the World
In 1983, one climber was more dominant than any other: Jerry Moffatt. Filled with confidence, he traveled the world not only to quickly repeat the hardest routes, but to put up his own routes - often the hardest in the country. A trip to the US let the world know that he had arrived, but it was a trip to Germany with one of the brightest German stars that really cemented his place as the best. And this wouldn't be the last we hear of Jerry Moffatt.
Check out Revelations by Jerry Moffatt and Niall Grimes
Check out our website for related episodes, resources and more!
Join the Secret Stoners Club for FREE and get bonus episodes.
----------------------------------
Season Two is generously supported by Rab.
This episode is supported by Tension Climbing. Use code WRITTEN15 at checkout.
This episode is supported by our research partner, NOLS: The National Outdoor Leadership School.
Written in Stone is co-created with Power Company Climbing.
Written in Stone tells the (mostly) true stories of the most groundbreaking ascents in rock climbing history, one decade at a time. Hosted by Kris Hampton, you’ll hear the narrated, sound designed stories about what led to new levels in climbing, alternated with conversations with today’s top climbers about what inspired them about what went down way back then.
Season Two is focused on the 1980’s. The birth of sport climbing as we know it, the struggles with changing rules and ethics, the women who paved the way for the superstars of the 90s and 00s. Patrick Edlinger, Jerry Moffatt, Wolfgang Gullich, Catherine Destivelle, Lynn Hill, and more.
Like Todd Skinner always said, ”never let the truth get in the way of a good story.”
South Africa