A Table in the Corner

In this episode of A Table in the Corner, I chat to PJ Vadas at his Smokehouse & Bakery on Spier Wine Estate. We talk plainly about what it actually costs to keep a restaurant running, and why so many operators are under pressure right now.
From refrigeration repair invoices that spiralled to over R100k to the constant recalibration of menus, staffing and pricing, PJ lays out the economics behind the plate. It’s a frank look at an industry where margins are tight, expectations are high, and every decision, from ingredient sourcing to glassware, has a cost attached. 
We follow his journey, from the fine dining intensity of The Roundhouse to building a large, broader operation at Spier. PJ explains why he moved away from fine diners, how diversification across bakery, retail and casual dining helps stabilise the business, and why one well-run, high-volume restaurant can offer more control than multiple smaller sites.
There’s also a frank take on kitchen culture, training and the realities of learning the craft. PJ speaks about time spent in demanding kitchens, the value of discipline, and the difference between pressure that builds skill and environments that simply break people down.
What emerges is a practical philosophy: know your numbers, charge what you need to survive, and build a restaurant that fits your life, not the other way around.

www.rwm2012.com
On Instagram @a_table_inthecorner
Cover image sketched by Courtney Cara Lawson
All profile portraits by Russel Wasserfall unless otherwise credited
Title music: 'In Time' by Olexy via Pixabay

In this episode of A Table in the Corner, Russel Wasserfall sits down with chef Adél Hughes and artist-host Liebet Jooste, the couple behind Seebamboes. Their restaurant, tucked above Galjoen on Harrington Street, forms part of the same restaurant family as Belly of the Beast.
The conversation explores how Seebamboes operates as a collaboration between kitchen and dining room. Adél cooks with ingredients that arrive from small producers, fishermen and foragers, often shaping dishes around what turns up that day. Liebet, drawing on her background as a visual artist, guides guests through the meal, helping frame the experience and the stories behind the ingredients.
Russel traces how the project began with a small takeaway operation in Betty’s Bay before finding a home in Cape Town. Along the way the discussion touches on West Coast foodways, the use of seaweeds and coastal plants, and the realities of cooking with ingredients that are seasonal, unpredictable and deeply tied to place.
It’s a conversation about storytelling through food: how a menu becomes a narrative, how chefs and front of house work together to shape the experience, and how a meal can reconnect diners with the landscapes and ingredients that surround the Western Cape coast.
Seebamboes will also feature in an upcoming Table for Two episode on the A Table in the Corner YouTube channel. Launching in early May, the new video series sees Russel and co-host Jonathan Warnke visiting some of their favourite Cape Town restaurants, sharing the experience of the meal from two perspectives: one from inside the hospitality industry, and one from the curious diner at the table.

www.rwm2012.com
On Instagram @a_table_inthecorner
Cover image sketched by Courtney Cara Lawson
All profile portraits by Russel Wasserfall unless otherwise credited
Title music: 'In Time' by Olexy via Pixabay

On this episode of A Table in the Corner, Russel sits down with Odette Olivier, head chef of the Harrington Street tasting-menu restaurant Belly of the Beast.
Odette talks about how she found her way into professional kitchens, from an early instinct to cook through culinary school and the formative years that followed in hotels and lodge kitchens. She also reflects on the influence of the late chef Ian Bergh of De Grendel Restaurant, whose mentorship helped shape her approach to cooking and to running a kitchen.
The conversation then turns to life inside Belly of the Beast, where a frequently changing set menu and an open kitchen create a particular rhythm to service. Odette describes the challenge of cooking a tightly choreographed tasting menu night after night, and how the small team keeps the kitchen calm and focused while working through multiple courses for every table.
Russel and Odette also discuss the realities of running a small restaurant in Cape Town today, including the growing problem of no-shows and how they affect independent restaurants operating with limited seats.
Finally, Odette shares a glimpse of what’s coming next for the Harrington Street group, which currently includes Belly of the Beast, Galjoen and Seebamboes. Two new restaurants, No Show and Quagga, are set to open in the next season, expanding the group’s presence in the East City Precinct.

www.rwm2012.com
On Instagram @a_table_inthecorner
Cover image sketched by Courtney Cara Lawson
All profile portraits by Russel Wasserfall unless otherwise credited
Title music: 'In Time' by Olexy via Pixabay

On this episode of A Table in the Corner, Russel sits down with Jesper Nilsson, the Swedish-born chef behind Ëlgr, his popular restaurant on Kloof Street.
Jesper’s cooking carries the clarity and discipline often associated with Scandinavian kitchens, but it’s firmly rooted in the produce and rhythm of Cape Town. The result is a restaurant that isn’t Nordic transplanted into South Africa, but something shaped by both places: restrained, ingredient-led cooking in a relaxed dining room where regulars gather as easily for a pizza and beer as they do for a date night meal.
In the conversation, Jesper traces his journey from chef school in Sweden to training locally at the International Culinary Academy, cooking in Franschhoek and eventually returning from Sweden to open Ëlgr at just 28 years old. He reflects on how his time at Malmö restaurant ‘Bastard’ reshaped his thinking about kitchen culture, leadership and the collaborative structure that now defines his team. 
Russel and Jesper also talk about the craft behind the menu – from house-made charcuterie and fermentation projects to the unexpectedly beloved pizzas – and about the discipline required to maintain consistency after four consecutive Eat Out Restaurant Awards one-star ratings.
It’s a conversation about how a chef’s identity forms: what you carry with you from where you grew up, what you learn along the way, and how those influences settle into a restaurant that reflects both the cook and the city around it.

www.rwm2012.com
On Instagram @a_table_inthecorner
Cover image sketched by Courtney Cara Lawson
All profile portraits by Russel Wasserfall unless otherwise credited
Title music: 'In Time' by Olexy via Pixabay

On this episode of A Table in the Corner, Russel sits down with Ella Rykaart, the front-of-house force behind Rykaarts, the small, atmospheric restaurant she runs with her husband, chef Alex Rykaart, on Longridge Wine Estate.
While chefs often take the spotlight, this conversation turns the focus toward the other half of the restaurant equation: hospitality. Ella reflects on her path from studying winemaking to discovering the pull of restaurant life, working under respected restaurateur Neil Grant, learning the realities of kitchens with George Jardine, and later refining her understanding of service and restaurant logistics alongside Christophe and Susan Dehosse.
The conversation explores what front-of-house leadership really means: building teams, managing expectations, creating a relaxed dining environment, and balancing the fine line between attentive service and simply allowing guests to enjoy themselves. Ella also speaks candidly about changing perspectives on hospitality, authenticity in restaurant culture, and why not every dining experience needs a carefully narrated story.
Set against the sweeping vineyard views of Longridge, this episode looks at the quieter craft of running service, and the role hospitality and setting play in shaping the experience of a restaurant.

www.rwm2012.com
On Instagram @a_table_inthecorner
Cover image sketched by Courtney Cara Lawson
All profile portraits by Russel Wasserfall unless otherwise credited
Title music: 'In Time' by Olexy via Pixabay