The Testpiece Podcast

16 year old Beckett Hsin just climbed bouldering’s hardest grade.
In this week’s episode, he and Josh discuss the path that took him here, the boulders that inspire him, and the power of psych. Beckett also tells us about his ambition to branch out from bouldering and explore everything that climbing has to offer.
Patreon Bonus Content (join Patreon for extended cut): 
Beckett’s experience with Lyme Disease
Tips for shorter climbers
Beckett’s strength metrics

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This is a recurring podcast focused on the latest things happening in climbing and what it means for our sport from industry veterans: Carlo Traversi, Will Anglin, Austin Hoyt, and Joshua Horsley.
Look at the Chapters for today's topics.
Patreon Content (join Patreon for extended cut with answers):
Is it ever okay to red-tag a boulder?
The politics and ethics of bolting a route

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After 2 insane years, Sean Bailey is back on the pod.
In this episode we break down Sean's hardest ascent to date, Duality of Man (5.15d) and the philosophy behind Next Gen, the new gym helmed by Sean and Nonaka Miho.

Patreon Bonus Content (join Patreon for extended cut): 
Is V17 or 5.15d harder?
Is Duality Of Man chipped?
Will Sean ever compete again?
Why has no one repeated any of the proposed 15d’s?

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Boards have become a unique discipline and culture within climbing, so we created a recurring podcast focused on the latest things happening in board climbing and what it means for our sport from industry veterans and board lovers: Sam Prior and Joshua Horsley.
Patreon Bonus Content (join Patreon for extended cut):
The best and worst MoonBoard sets and holds
How is Ben Moon still so strong at nearly 60 years old?
What makes a benchmark a benchmark?
Sam’s favorite Careless Talk episode
The thing people don’t realize about climbing content

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One year later, Dr. Tyler Nelson is back!
Tyler is the owner and founder of Camp4 Human Performance and an expert on all things training. In this episode we discuss everything shoulders, including best exercises, rehab, what to avoid, and more.
Patreon Bonus Content (join Patreon for extended cut): 
Are your hangs limited by finger strength or shoulder strength?
Do pressing exercises really “even out” climbers?
When to consider surgery

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